The Craignair Inn is located at the end of Clark Island Road in a lobstering village called Spruce Head, on the St. George Peninsula, off Route 1, which runs from Brunswick all the way to Canada. The craggy coast of Maine is 3,500 miles long, because of all the nooks and crannies; this is actually far longer than California’s mere 800 miles of coastline. We look out our windows to Clark Island, small, nearly uninhabited, with more deer and seals as neighbors than human residents. We are surrounded by nature, which is just the way we like it.
That doesn’t mean we don’t appreciate the finer things. Many of us here chose this place on purpose, and relocated from Boston, Miami, and New York City to put down roots, raise families, build community, grow businesses, and live in a balanced way, leaving a smaller carbon footprint and creating more connections and opportunities. But just because we live in the woods doesn’t mean that we are philistines. We are epicureans, foodies, connoisseurs of fine beverages, lovers of all things tasty and artfully crafted. We are always on the lookout for honest, authentic cooking that relies on local ingredients and resources. We believe that high quality food is one of life’s essential luxuries. And we are proud of what we are creating here, in our own restaurant, The Causeway.
Maine’s Midcoast is home to a number of outstanding restaurants, bars, breweries, and cafes. For such a relatively small cluster of towns set in a remote corner of The United States, we have access to an abundance of really fine cuisine. Restaurants that have been recognized for their exquisite food, cooks awarded for consistent and uncompromising values, chef-owners who work the line day in and day out, year after year, and contribute to the quality of life by providing really good food to tourists and locals alike.
Primo’s Melissa Kelly, Camden’s (very fun and sadly now defunct) wolfpeach, Keiko Suzuki Steinberger of Rockland’s stunning Suzuki’s Sushi Bar, famous Erin French of The Lost Kitchen in Freedom, have all been finalists, semifinalists, or past award winners. The James Beard award is prestigious. For restaurants it is validating and adds value. For consumers it is a beacon, a watchword for excellence, a stamp in one’s cultural passport. We aspire to be among The Outstanding, the Best New, The Elite. We work very hard to source food ethically. To cook to a high standard. To be creative as well as consistent. To be, above all, delicious.
In spring of last year we made an impactful decision to hire Gil Plaster as our Executive Chef. Gil hails from Miami, and his experience is deep and vast. He came to us from The Canopy in Portland, where he served as Director of Food and Beverage. Before that he was Chef de Cuisine at Cliff House in Cape Neddick, Maine. He was Executive Chef at Portland Harbor Hotel and before leaving his native Florida, ran Shula's, a chic seafood and steak house in Coral Gables. But beyond his impressive CV, the thing we knew about Gil was that he loved to cook. He wasn’t seeking fame and fortune. He just wants to make great food for as many people as possible before he leaves this world.
Chef Gil has also turned out to be an attentive teacher to his young staff. He endeavors every day to be better and make them better through his actions To watch these new cooks learning from their mentor, evolving in their chosen profession and as human beings, is one of our favorite parts of every day. Chef works every part of the line, every station, no job too humble or low. He gets his hands dirty. He also brings a high level of thinking and management skills to his craft. He is a brilliant menu creator and kitchen economist. He is equally both an artist and a high wire mathematician, which has proven to be precisely what we needed for long term success. We want to be here for the long haul. We want to be beloved.
Gil devises the seasonal dinner and brunch menus for The Causeway. He works with local purveyors. He visits the farms and knows the farmers. He goes out hauling lobster, when time allows. He cooks specials with what is freshest and bright and best. His approach is to treat each ingredient lovingly, coaxing out all their flavor with skill. He can do classic French sauces and cutting edge techniques. He isn’t a showman, but when he talks about his food, you can’t help but fall under his spell. He believes in what he is doing and then he does it. He brings ideas to fruition. And in return, he gets rave reviews.
Where we are, tourists are a large and important part of our business model. We enjoy every day of summer, the busyness, the new faces, the folks from cities far away who get to experience our corner of the world, the way we know each other, the way we are experts in what we do and kind to one another and try to live harmoniously with nature. They get to enjoy the best seafood from Maine’s cold waters beautifully prepared by Chef Gil. His chowders and bisques are as good as any you’ll find in Boston or Brooklyn. Because of our oceanfront location, we could serve food half as good, and the people would come. But that's just not how we operate.
The other half of the year, the quiet part, the low season, we have a roster of regulars who dine with us weekly or monthly. This is where friends meet up regularly. This is where wedding anniversaries, romantic and public, are celebrated. This is where vibrant dinners occur and gatherings of people who just love to eat great stuff together in a gorgeous setting. We host art openings with appetizers and snacks. We host private parties with murder mystery themes. We host pop ups and parties and fixed price evenings with wine and beer and spirit pairings. We rely on both halves of the year, the union of these opposite guests for our success. And we genuinely enjoy them both equally. One could easily become cynical, but we remember why we do this. It all matters to us, very much!
Summer or winter, fall or spring, The Causeway Restaurant is a source of nourishment for body and soul. It is where the community gathers. This is where we celebrate Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter, and the Fourth of July. This is where you take your mom on Mother's Day and your dad on Father's Day. This is where you meet friends for a Friday night cocktail. This is where you have an epic Sunday Bloody Mary brunch. This is one of those restaurants, where everybody knows your name and where you know that you'll be remembered in all your multi-faceted humanity. You will be seen by servers, staff, and owners. From favorite foods to dietary restrictions, the things that characterize and define you, we've got you. Our customers sense that, and become our friends.
It's incredibly cool to be part of the restaurant scene here, in Maine, and in particular its lovely MidCoast. We love hosting other restaurateurs here and dining out at their establishments. It really feels like family, like we're all in this together, when we're out on a Sunday night, and it's all industry people, and we're laughing and having a drink (or nine). We collaborate and share ideas, talent, and resources. We are excited by the prospect of this year's James Beard Awards. We hope you will consider us for this honor. And remember to visit us in Spruce Head, where we're open all year, to eat, drink, and be merry throughout every season in Maine.